So tomorrow's exam got cancelled and that is because the instructor can't make it due to scheduling conflict. Aniya Nandy, the instructor works within the industry on set and is a unionized make-up artist. Of course, she will send a substitute, and the show will go on! This is an exciting change because it allows the class to gain perspective from a different source of instruction. No exam, meant that I had the time to finish this assignment for my Cosmetic Product Knowledge class. So here it is, go ahead and give it a read...
Introduction
This glossary of terms is about ingredients used in our industry, and the properties of each term punctuating cosmetic product knowledge. It aims to define ten terms and ingredients, detailing the uses of each. The focus of my assignment is to use information in claims made and further my personal understanding pertaining to cosmetics. Many effective claims are promoted in our industry, and each consumer has the wide and varied choice of purchasing options, by default they are at risk of buying illusion. The world we live in is full of contradiction, so I focused on options that advance my learning curve. Furthermore, the research outcome accelerates the potentiality of purchasing decisions when introduced to a retail setting in my career.
Concealer
The definition of a concealer is “A facial cosmetic used to cover blemished skin.” (www.thefreedictionary.com/concealer, February 12th 2013). The concealer in makeup artistry varies beyond the concealment of a traditional blemish; flaws that are considered when using concealer represent an expanded complexity when facing the beauty ideal. No other product more readily meets the market segments demand of perpetual perfection; or represents the illusion of cosmetic perfection. I can think of at least five uses in the application of concealer. For everyone who ever perceives their skin as blemished, whether hereditary, lifestyle, or caused by one’s own perception of beauty, can benefit from using the following:
- Light reflecting to enhance luminosity in dull skin
- Lavender colour to combat sallowness
- Green colour to mask redness
- Peach/apricot tone to counteract ashiness
- Medicated concealer for the treatment of mild to moderate acne
Surfactant
The definition of surfactant is “a surface-active substance” (www.thefreedictionary.com/surfactant, February 12, 2013).
Surfactants in cosmetic use range from conditioning, emulsifying, boosting lather and solubizing synergistic ingredients. Surfactants are found in cosmetic products used by everyone such as in cleansers and lotions. The three most common used surfactants in cosmetics can be classified by their ionic charge; at the head of the chemical compound in the ingredient. This process of classification demonstrates the ions charge; it is either negative or positive, or both. I have further categorized them by usage in each of the three commonly found classifications of surfactants in cosmetics.
- Amphoteric Surfactant-“examples include Sodium Lauriminodipropionate and Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate. Amphoterics are primarily used in cosmetics as secondary surfactant. They can help boost foam, improve conditioning and even reduce irritation. They are also used for baby shampoos and other cleansing products that require mildness. The drawbacks are that they do not have good cleansing properties and don’t function well as emulsifiers.” (www.chemistscorners/what-kinds-of-surfactants-are-used-in-cosmetics. Perry, February 12th 2013)
- Nonionic surfactants-“There is no other type of surfactant that is used more frequently than nonionic surfactants. The primary nonionic surfactants used for cosmetics include alcohol, alkanolamides, esters and amine oxides. Alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl alcohol are used in creams and lotions to provide body and feel to the formulas. They also help stabilize the emulsion and can reduce irritation.” (www.chemistscorners/wha-tkinds-of-surfactants-are-used-in-cosmetics Perry, February 12th 2013)
- Anionic Surfactants “They include carboxylic acids, sulfates, sulfonic acids and phosphoric acid derivatives. Carboxylic acid anionic surfactants are used for creating stick products like deodorants and anti-perspirants. The salt version (sodium stearate) makes an excellent soap.” Sulfates in this classification are categorically found as foaming agents in soap, body wash, shampoo and cleansers. SLS, ALS and SLES are examples of lather boosting surfactants found in our cosmetic products, which are sulphate ingredients. (www.chemistscorners/what-kinds-of-surfactants-are-used-in-cosmetics Perry, February 12th 2013)
Photosensitive
The definition of photosensitive is “1. Reacting to light; said of a cell or organism 2. Having abnormally heightened sensitivity of the skin or eyes to sunlight.” (www.medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/photosensitive February, 12th, 2013)
As the molecular structure of a product can contain single or compound ingredients with photosensitive properties for the purpose of assigning this term a definition, the first will be applied. It is photosensitivity, the term of equal importance to be familiar with in its duality in the case of working with clients who are photosensitive with a genetic predisposition. Having knowledge of this term is unilaterally applied with a photosensitive skin condition, by increasing the precautionary measures when recommending a product or service with photosensitive ingredients or properties. Anything that claims to exfoliate the layers of epidermis or dermis will leave your skin vulnerable to photosensitivity. Hence, why the majority of the exfoliate properties in cosmetic uses are beneficial to the skin and a detrimental cause to future damage if not followed by SPF application on the client. The sun can cause damage which stores beneath the cutaneous layers of skin that appears on the surface layer years later. Dermatologists and medi-spas have a machine that allows you to see where the damage is being deposited by infra-red light beams. Beyond exfoliants, of which we have AHA’s, salicylic acid, and beta hydroxyl acid, included in cosmetics drugs and natural health products we have ingredients that have photosensitive properties. Each has a different component in inhibiting or assisting light UV rays and that is often not the primary function of that ingredient. Some photosensitive ingredients are preservatives, skin lightening agents, mild acne therapy, herbal remedial ingredients for wound healing and inflammation. With most photosensitive product ingredients, the label will recommend precautionary measures. Some of the product ingredients found in natural health products, cosmetics and drugs include:
- Benzoyl peroxide
- St Johns Wort Hyperifcum per foratum),
- Lady’s Mantle (alchemilla vulgaris)
- Kojic Acid
- Hydroquinone
- L Ascorbic Acid
- All citrus essential oils: Lemon ( citrus limonum), Tangerine ( Citrus Reticulata ) Sweet Orange (citrus sinesis) , bitter orange ( citrus aurantium, Lime ( citrus aurantifolia)
Humectant
The definition for humectant is an “n. substance that promotes retention of moisture adj. promoting retention of moisture” (www.thefreedictionary.com/humectant, February 12th, 2013) A key ingredient in moisturizers, has properties which prevent loss of moisture. Everyone uses one at some point in one’s life, if the individual is applying cosmetics. There are many common ingredients that have humectant properties in our industry, which are commonly synthetic. A humectant ingredient can contain other useful properties; demonstrating suppleness to the skin and softening effects on the skin. The natural humectants are potentially used because they are creamier in texture and demonstrate a higher viscosity, such as honey, glycerin and collagen. A synthetic humectant is considered as the gold standard with non-organic, drugstore or even department store moisturizer. In fact, it is these synthetic humectants that are contained in the most commonly available cosmetic moisturizers.
Synthetic Humectants
- “Propylene glycol-next to water, this is the most common moisture- carrying vehicle used in cosmetic formulations.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.253 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Butylene glycol- a solvent with good antimicrobial action. Butylene glycol also serves as a humectant and viscosity controller, and to mask odor.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.114 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Ethoxydiglycol is non-irritating, nonpenetrating and noncomedogenic” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.150 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing
Natural Humectants
- “Panthenol (vitamin B5) considered a non-comedogenic raw material” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.235 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Elastin is an elastic structural protein found in the dermis together with collagen, and it is difficult to obtain in pure form.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.148 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Lecithin generally obtained for cosmetic products from eggs and soybeans, it is found in all living organisms.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.202 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Honey is composed of a variety of sugars, wax, and other substances, including gluconic, citric, malic, and formic and lactic acids; beta-carotene; enzymes; amino acids and vitamins.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.175 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Keratin is often used in cosmetics for its moisture retention and protective effect.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.193 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Glycerin. It is a clear syrupy liquid made by chemically combining water and fat that is usually derived from vegetable oil.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.165 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
- “Collagen is not water soluble, and has been very popular in cosmetic formulations for more than 30 years. Collagen is considered a “commercially pure” protein found in animal connective tissue.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.132 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
PH
“pH refers to the level of acidity or alkalinity of a given chemical ingredient or product. As the hydrogen in a substance determines the ingredient or product’s level of acidity or alkalinity, the symbol pH stands for the power (p) of the hydrogen molecule (H). The pH of acids ranges between 0 and 6.9 and of alkalis between 7.1 and 14. A pH of 7 is considered neutral. The importance of a product’s pH is based on its correlation to the skin’s pH. Human skin has a pH in the acidic range, varying from 4.4 to 5.6 depending on the individual and the area of skin tested. The value of the surface pH is due to acids present in the stratum corneum. External factors such as perspiration, tend to make the skin more acidic. The higher the skin’s pH number the less acidic it is, and the greater its sensitivity reaction to very acidic compounds, often sensed as burning or redness. The lower the skin’s numeric pH the more acidic it is, and thus it will be less sensitive to acid compounds such as peelings and other exfoliants. As a practical example, skin with a pH of 5 will be more sensitive to an AHA product with a pH of 3.8 than will skin with a pH of 4.4” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, and 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.62 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
Cosmetic artists don’t test clients’ pH when offering cosmetic makeup applications. There is a science behind pH, and it is not part of the perceived benefit value for the large majority of consumers. Purchasing decisions are rarely based on pH levels, there is a limited amount of product in a retail environment used in service that offers a higher concentration of alkalinity or acidity. For the sake of science, we trust that chemists formulating cosmetics have taken into account the varying factors in formulating a generally acceptable pH balance in cosmetics. Respectively, there are reasons why one would seek out high levels of alkalinity or acidity in medi spa treatments. These include service that use high alkaline water to promote relaxation and comfort in a hygiene bathing treatment, or estheticians who offer glycolic acid chemical peels which are high in acid concentrations.
Mica
“used as a texturizer and coloring agent in cosmetics, it is employed to provide a “glimmer” or “shimmering” quality in makeup powders. Mica is the group name for a series of ground silicate minerals with similar physical properties but varied chemical composition. Micas range in color from colorless to pale green, brown, or black.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, and 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.217 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing. Mica is used in 18,585 products, the following product types have been listed as generally safe for everyday use by ewg.org: (www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/products/703949, February 13th, 2013)
- liquid hand soap
- around eye cream
- anti-aging around eye cream
- styling gel/lotion ( hair care)
- exfoliant/scrub
- facial moisturizer/treatment
- Body wash/cleanser
- shampoo
- conditioner
- hair colour and bleaching
- Anti-aging moisturizer/treatment
- Facial powder
- Glitter
- Lip Balm
- Moisturizer
- Baby Powder
- Eye Shadow
- Blush
- Eyeliner
- Bronzer/highlighter
- Lipstick
- Brow liner
- Lip liner
- Body Powder
- Nail polish
- Bath Oil/ salts/soak
- Mascara
- Concealer
- Oil Controller
- Foundation
- Sunscreen SPF 15-30
- SPF greater than 30
- Bar soap
- Anti-aging facial powder
- Eczema/damaged skin treatment, redness/rosacea treatment
This list does not constitute every cosmetic ever made and produced for retail sale. In fact it only represents those affiliates that choose to present their product to the available online resource. That means Mica is in tens of thousands of more products, than the 18,585 listed and available through so many channels to so many people. This product is naturally sourced and does not have any cosmetic contraindications as a singular compound. It is considered widely available, and used for its glitter in everything that cleans you, conceals you, and alters you! You wouldn't use it if your product requires opacity. I can't imagine how much mica cosmetic companies must purchase for their inventory of raw ingredients! It is widely tolerable, and effective in providing feel, body and glimmer in translucent finish type cosmetics. I can't find any potential dangers associated with mica.
Castor Oil
“cold pressed oil obtained through the seeds or beans of the Ricinus Communis (castor oil)” plant Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.121 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing “It is used in cosmetics as a n emollient, though its unique property is that when dry it forms a solid film that can have water-binding properties. It is rarely associated with skin irritation or allergic reactions, but can have a slightly sticky feel on skin.” Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron (2008) Don’t Go to the Counter Without Me 7th Edition, p.1083 Beginning Press
I looked at this ingredient because of Edgar Cayce's readings. Influenced at young age by metaphysical healings and the physiology of our mind-body I was using castor oil to fight off some of the worst attacks on my immunity and skin cells as a person with severe acne. I found the odor to be mildly offensive and the flavour was not at all similar. Its head note is thick in offensively natural type earthy odors. From experience with ingestion I find the smell is mildly offensive, it can obviously be masked with parfum in cosmetic usage. We use it in many different cosmetics, and it is considered to be a safe and effective emollient.
Tocopherol
“(Vit. E) an antioxidant obtained by vacuum distillation of edible vegetables oils. Considered the most important oil-soluble antioxidant and free radical scavenger. It is also a photoprotectent, and it helps protect the cellular membrane from free-radical damage. This vitamin is also believed to help maintain connective tissues.”.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, and 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.303 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing. “key in reducing UV induced age damage-neutralizing the attack of free radicals through nonezymatic and enzymatic components.”” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, and 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.46 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
In an age full of damaging effects due to carcinogens, and potentially toxic environmental factors, we are living longer than ever. Despite this seemingly contradictory evidence we all want to stay youthful in appearance as it has been determined to be a standard of beauty. I don’t know if it’s the innocence of youth, or just the way we have been conditioned in culture to believe this…But enough of the products that have Vitamin E are anti-aging! Beyond its measurable anti-oxidant effect it makes an excellent preservative in shelf life, due to its anti-oxidant properties. It does not have any antimicrobial property as a preservative. Vitamin E lends it’s duality to moisturizer, creams, serums, eye care, masks, exfoliants and even lip-gloss. Rarely have contraindications been present on product labels with this single ingredient. It is also readily available as a supplement and can be used to promote a healthy slippery colon when taken internally.
Salicylic Acid
“a betahydroxic acid with keratolytic and anti-immflamatory activity. It helps dissolve the top layer of corneumcells, improving the look and feel of the skin.”.” Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, and 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, p.269 Cengage Learning Milady Publishing. “BHA has the ability to penetrate into the pores ( AHAs do not) and thus can exfoliate inside the pore as well as on the surface of the skin, which makes it effective for surface of the skin, which makes it effective for reducing blemishes, including blackheads and white heads.” .” Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron (2008) Don’t Go to the Counter Without Me 7th Edition, p.1146 Beginning Press
I have been using two products with this ingredient on my skin since my breakouts started, and steadily I have seen improvement in my skin condition. I use the Revlon Concealer formulated for acne and Dr. Murads blemish fighting cleanser, with licorice and colloidal silver. These products absolutely work. The ingredient, salicylic acid is considered beneficial when promoting effectiveness in treating minor skin conditions like stress related acne blemishes. I feel that any formulation with salicylic acid is worth the money. It has been found since the fifties in women’s beauty arsenal, with treatments like the legendary aspirin mask. Where you take two aspirins and crush, and water for a paste; use it on the face as a mask. There are natural forms of salicylic acid that I know offhand like the willow bark and the oat. Contraindications for this product may include the precautions of photosensitivity, and use with a sunscreen is recommended, minor tingling effects have been reported by some.
Mineral Oil
“this is a clear, odorless oil derived from petroleum and is not known to cause allergic reactions. “Despite mineral oils association with petroleum and the hype that is bad for skin, keep in mind that petroleum and the hype that it is bad for the skin, keep in mind that petroleum is a natural ingredient derived from the earth and that once it becomes a mineral ingredient derived from the earth and that once it becomes mineral oil USP (cosmetics-and pharmaceutical-grade mineral oil), it has no resemblance to the original petroleum. Cosmetic-grade mineral oil and petroleum are considered the safest, most nonirritating moisturizing ingredients found.” Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron (2008) Don’t Go to the Counter Without Me 7th Edition, p.1125 Beginning Press This ingredient is really the most commonly used in households. In everything from baby products to your 8 hour cream by Elizabeth Arden, Vaseline and every lotion made by Vaseline, Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizer. You cannot get away from it in any product category, but there is a green trend that shuns the use of mineral oil. Hotly debated, it is still a product of natural origin without many contraindications.
Conclusion
The learning in this assignment, focusing on apprehending the functionality of cosmetics through the research, is paramount in understanding benefits that our industry ascribes to. The glossary of terms and ingredients is a comprehensive tool in furthering my product knowledge, advancing my interpretations of cosmetic functionality. The functions of each term and ingredient in different formulas, as a synergistic component, as well as for its individual uses were the result of this assignment. The learning outcome has been valuable in understanding textures of different formulas, learning about viscosity as well as benefits and detriments of cosmetics. The research underscores a potential for more learning and a productive development of a critical analysis when using or selling cosmetic product.
Bibliography
2. In class materials with:
Aniya Nandy
Kara Barber
3. APA formatting resource:
The Writing Center, consultation with Naomi
4. www.thefreedictionary.com
6. www.medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com
7. Natalia Michalun, M.Varnia Michalun (2010, 2001, and 1993) Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 3rd Edition, Cengage Learning Milady Publishing.
8. .” Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron (2008) Don’t Go to the Counter Without Me 7th Edition, Beginning Press
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